German Riesling the Way it Should be
Since Phylloxera wreaked havoc across the wine producing regions, the resistant American rootstocks have been grafted to virtually all vines around the world. It is therefore quite unusual to see ungrafted vines in Europe. Ungrafted vines of around 100 years old are rarer still. Working with veritable living antiques like this would be daunting for anyone, let alone a fresh-faced 20 year old about to take over the family business.
Not so for Markus Molitor. Taking over the reins of the family company in 1984, he has grown the Mosel-based estate from 4ha to 400. Now one of the largest family owned vineyards in the region, every wine is still produced organically, without fining or industrial yeasts.
This is a taste of true German terroir. Stephen Reinhardt wrote in The Finest Wines of Germany 2012, "Molitor's wines are extraordinary: deep, rich and well-structured, but not lacking freshness, grace or the ability to inspire."
Each summer, 50 vineyard workers carry out canopy management in these vineyards. With such unrivalled investment in the vines, it's no surprise the wines turn out so well. Even in unremarkable vintages, Markus Molitor's wines stand head and shoulders above the rest.